Xi’an
Night of Arrival
We arrived at the Xi’an airport “as per scheduled” (
TSS insider joke) and made our way to the luggage return area by following the signs. Like the Shanghai
Pudong Airport, Xi’an airport was clean, large, modern, well-lighted and had excellent signage in Chinese and English. Because we had booked a private 2-day tour in Xi’an, we were to be met by our tour guide and taken to our hotel. As we walked into the area where the luggage carousels were, we saw the roped-off reception greeting area on the far side of the room. Many people were waiting there and those along the rope were holding signs with names on them. Most of the signs were in Chinese, so we hoped none of those were for us – how would we identify them?
We had been informed that our tour guide was named “angle” so we
weren’t sure if that was male or female, which added to the challenge. Most of the sign holders were male, wearing black suits. Finally, near the end of the row, nearest where we would pass after picking up our luggage, we saw a young woman wearing a white coat holding a sign with three names in English. Even before we got close enough to see if those were our names, she was smiling widely and waving enthusiastically. Sure enough, when we got closer we saw that our names were on her sign. Briefly we wondered how she knew we were her tourists and then – Duh! – realized that we were the only Westerners coming off the plane and we were three females. I guess we stood out like sore thumbs.
After we retrieved our luggage and passed by an airport official, we approached our guide, who said her Chinese name was Mei (pronounced “May”) and she preferred to be called that. She shook our hands, introduced our driver, a man named Ma, and started talking very fast, non-stop, as she led the way out of the building and across the parking area to where the tour company’s white van was parked. Ma stowed our luggage and we wearily climbed aboard. It was twilight outside and it had been a long day. Nikki and Nancy got into the first row of seats and I sat in the row behind. As we started out of the airport grounds, Mei was still talking. She tried teaching us to say “Excuse me” in Chinese – why, we were not sure – but it was rather difficult with many syllables and since I was sitting behind N&N, I copped out of that exercise. Eventually, Mei started telling us about the area we were passing through and then general history of Xi’an, which has a long and noble place in Chinese history, having been the capital for three (I think) ancient dynasties over a period of several centuries.
When we neared the central part of Xi’an, the traffic was incredible, wall-to-wall for as far as the eye could see and barely moving. As we slowly passed by buildings, I saw rows of tiny shops that reminded me incredibly of Uzbekistan and when I saw a vendor standing outside a shop tending a
shashlik cooker, I was suddenly transported in memory back to my time in Uzbekistan in 1996-1998. I saw “mosquitoes,” tiny three-wheeled trucks with little beds (like pick-up truck beds) darting here and there. Cars were using the sidewalk as an additional lane of traffic although there were five lanes going in each direction. It took forever to drive about two kilometers but I was fascinated with all the parallels with Uzbekistan. The next day, Nancy suggested that the strange dream I’d had that night was a result of that
déjà vu experience.
Finally we made several tortuous turns and arrived at the hotel that would be ours for two nights. Mei escorted us inside, where we were surprised to see a large decorated Christmas tree surrounded by potted Poinsettias in the center of the lobby. She helped us check into the hotel, escorted us to the elevator and pointed out the ground-floor restaurant where our included breakfast would be served. The bell hop had our luggage on a cart and went with us up to our room. As we walked down the hallway toward our room, we were startled to see a young woman who looked very much like a prostitute coming out of one of the rooms. She was Chinese, had long, black and very disheveled hair and was wearing a white dress that plunged so low in front that it almost
didn’t have a top. The skirt of the dress was extremely short. Other than that, we have nothing specific to base our opinion on. She seemed equally startled to see us. Later, when Nikki looked out of our door to see in the bell hop was returning with our towels, she saw the woman going back into the room.
After he had deposited our bags and acquired a third set of towels for us, we had time to look around the room and were disconcerted and astounded to realize that the wall dividing the sleeping area from the bathroom was of glass! The bathroom consisted of three sections: the washing area with a sink, the toilet area and the huge shower area. A glass wall, partially clear and partially lightly frosted, was between the bed area and the wash area; a similar wall divided the wash area from the toilet – the door which formed part of the wall was clear and the part near the toilet was frosted. I think the wall of the shower area was clear but – fortunately – a thick, opaque shower curtain could be drawn across the entire length of the wall for total privacy while showering. Or not, according to preference. We preferred to close it! I never even thought to take a picture of it so I have no proof of my claims and nothing to include on the blog. I did take a picture out the window, however, and include it here.
View from Window 9799
We settled ourselves and started a game of
Quiddler but gave out before long and after finishing only up to eight cards, quit and retired for the night. Nancy slept on the roll-away bed brought in to house our third person. Nikki and I each took one of the nice double beds. Except for the sounds of a party going on somewhere outside, we slept well and awoke anxious to get our tour of China underway.
Day One Tours – Saturday 8 December 2007
The next morning, we got up and dressed very warmly because the weather was going to be colder than in Shanghai – which was too cold for me – and went down to the main floor to have breakfast, which was served buffet style. Our choice of utensils was chopsticks but we had come prepared – each of us had temporarily borrowed a fork from the
TSS dining room, just in case. We bravely took chopsticks but after we’d selected our food, ended up using the fork for most of it. I don’t remember a lot about what I ate but remember that there was a very green leafy vegetable that was delicious but tricky with chopsticks. I enjoyed the “lemon juice” which was freshly squeezed lemon juice sweetened and warmed. Its being warm was unexpected but it tasted great.
After eating, we went outside and walked two doors down to a 24-hour bank that had
ATMs and each withdrew a number of
Yuans because we had to pay Mei for our tour in cash. Then we went back to the hotel and there in the lobby and there was Mei, waiting for us. We went outside and hopped into the white van and took off to see the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower. The ride was one of my favorite memories of China because we drove into and through an old, traditional section of Xi’an having narrow, winding streets and buildings almost flush with the street. I only managed to get a few shots of what I saw on the way to and from the two towers but include them below. It is necessary to say here that the pollution was as bad here as it had been in Shanghai and so most of the shots will look cloudy and slightly blurred. That also means my blurriest shots will be really a mess!
The van parked in a tiny slice of space and we four women got out to walk along the street, up a ramp, through a passage way under a building and out onto an open square from which we could see both towers. As we approached the ramp, I took this slightly blurry photo of a street vendor.
Street Vendor and Stand 9803
Walkway through and beneath the building 9806
We were on the upper level of the open area. The Drum Tower was to our right and the Bell Tower to our right. The buildings along one side of the square had traditional red lanterns hanging outside. Red is considered a very luck color in China. The old buildings have the traditional architecture of peaked roof facing the front of the building, eaves that curve up, tiled roofs, and a series of significant animal figures lined up on the outer edges of the eaves. They also have red lanterns hanging from them.
First shot of Drum Tower to our right 9805
First shot of Bell Tower to our left 9807
We were surprised and very upset when we found out that our tour, which was supposed to include “admission tickets to the sites” did not include tickets to these towers. We could go inside, Mei told us, if we paid 40
Yuans. We were so distressed by this situation that she ended up calling her boss but the answer was still no. Then she gave us the choice of which tower to first see closer up. We never really decided but since we could get closer to the Drum Tower, ended up there.
Closer-up of Drum Tower. The two large circles on the first balcony of the tower are drums. 9810
Even closer 9812
It was easier to see it when closer up to it. I was fascinated by the architectural and decorative features that were so typically Chinese.
Upper levels 9813
My attention was momentarily distracted by a kite seller who was roaming around the square and who had let out a whole, long string of kites which sailed upward almost out of sight so of course I had to take a photo of it.
String of Kites 9814
Then I turned my attention back to the Drum Tower and focused on the details.
Animals on the eaves. Each represents a different historical character having certain qualities 9815
Peak decoration – no significance according to Mei, just beautiful 9821
Drums, red lanterns and top of entry stairs 9822
Close-up on Drum 9824
Close-up of Lantern 9826
As we looked about from our vantage point near the Drum Tower, we noticed that the moon was still up and barely visible through the smog. Mei said that it was a Snow Moon and meant it would snow. When we went to the end of the walkway nearest the Bell Tower, a great shot of the moon and the Bell Tower presented itself.
Bell Tower and Snow Moon 9828
Closer-ups of Bell Tower 9830, 9833, 9834
While Mei was explaining about the Bell Tower, the Drum Tower and the history surrounding them, we occasionally heard bells from the Bell Tower boom out. They sounded more like gongs than Western bells. They were not happening regularly so we asked what it meant when a bell was rung and learned that people who visit the tower can make an offering and then can strike the bell to send their requests to the gods.
Other interesting, more modern sights, could be seen from our vantage point including a covered metro stop, nearby buildings
Metro stop 9837
Nearby buildings (with moon) 9827
Then it was time to head back to the van to go to the City Wall so we walked back through the opening in the building toward the ramp and saw the scene going the other way.
View 1 9838
Close-up of commonly-used tricycles parked near the curb 9839
Gated window on building 9840
As we drove away, I tried taking photos through the bus window across the aisle from me. Most didn’t turn out, of course, but one shows a slice of some signs.
Signs through Bus Window 9842
The City Wall
Xi’an had been a walled city for centuries it still stands, separating the original city area from the “new” city, which is actually quite old. The wall is very thick and has tunnel entrances leading to the interior. The entrances are large enough for modern tour buses to pass through so our van had no problem entering the inner courtyard, which now serves as a parking lot for tour vehicles. As soon as we exited the bus, I took a picture of the entrance, looking from the parking lot back to the street we had entered from.
Entrance from parking lot; note the building on top of the wall 9863
Closer-up of entrance with some bus drivers hanging out until their groups return 9864
The opening in the wall that was opposite of the one we entered through, which was placed between the two stairways going up. The arch of the opening was made of bricks in a fan formation. This opening had closed red doors rather than being open as the other one was.
Archway detail 9868
Red doors within the arch and sign above arch 9869
Can you guess? It’s a trash can, designed to fit into its surroundings 9871
Detail of animal figures on eave of wall building 9865
As we started walking toward the stairways leading to the top of the wall, my heart sank. More stairs and a lot of them with no landings! However, they were lovely to look at and flanked by lamp posts with red lanterns suspended from them.
Stairs, lamp posts at top and bottom and Information stand 9873
Steep stairs 9874
I somehow managed to get to the top of the stairs, but only by pausing halfway up to take a picture of the courtyard and the building opposite the one shown above.
View from halfway up 9876
All along the top of the wall on the short sides flanking the two buildings were displayed traditional weapons of war and defense. Some were most unusual from a Western point of view but look plenty vicious.
View of several weapons 9877
When I turned to my left, I saw a great view of the building at right angles.
Building 9878
Behind me was the open square with the parking lot. I gook a picture of the corner of the wall with two entrances visible, one with a closed door and the one at the right which we had driven through.
Open Square 9880
Directly ahead, past the weapons was another outpost on another section of the wall. I was impressed with the architecture, with the walls slanted from top to bottom because they are thicker at the bottom. The outposts are extremely attractive as compared to Western ones, having the traditional Chinese architecture.
Outpost on wall 9881
From our vantage point on the wall, we could look down at a walking entrance to the grounds outside the wall, where there was an attractive person-scale gateway.
Gateway 9882
I was taking pictures while Mei described the wall and its functions, the history of the area and the role the wall had played in the life of the city and its residents. I got some close-ups of the weapons.
Cart-style weapon 9883
Ladder-like weapon on wheels 9893
Catapult-type weapon 9894
Battering ram 9895
Triangle-shaped weapon 9900
Although I was bundled up against the cold, having on thermal underwear, a long-sleeved blouse, a hooded sweatshirt, a buttoned sweater and an insulated jacket with hood, knitted scarf and knit gloves and looked like a butterball, I had my photo taken.
Buveh and the building on the wall 9886
Mei offered to take a picture of all three of us against the big bell nearby. Nancy is so bundled up you can’t see her face but you have to admit she looks much more stylish than I do.
Buveh with N&N at bell 9887
Another shot of the outpost, showing angles and arches of wall entrances 9888
Bell with sun in background 9891
After wandering around on that part of the wall for a while, we started walking toward the building on the far side. On the way, Mei pointed out the markings on the stone walkway. They are Chinese characters telling the name of the company that made the stones, the year they were made, etc.
Markings 9898
A covered chair, formerly used to transport an important person through the streets. Runners held the red bars and ran through the streets with the chair. Note the dragon designs on the eaves.
Covered chair 9901
Close-up of dragon 9903
Close-up of nearby lamp post 9904
Close-up of eaves of nearby building; note animal figures atop it 9906
Then we approached the building we were headed for, which housed an information place.
Sign above entrance to building 9914
Beautiful carved wooden screen inside entrance to the building – note the camel on the far left, behind the screen 9915
After I’d taken the photo, N or N hissed to me, “You’re not supposed to take pictures in here!” So I put away my camera and didn’t get a photo of the large stone dragon-lion in the next room.
We went behind the screen to see a mural that depicted the ages of Xi’an with images representative of its significant accomplishments. The camels (there are more that the one visible below) represent the Silk Route. Xi’an was the beginning point of that famous trail.
Then we were introduced to our “local guide” and escorted into a nearby room hung with photos and displaying a large jade lion-dragon. The guide told us the legend of the lion-dragon and said that this particular carving was very popular with local people, who rubbed it in a certain way to bring various kinds of good luck. First, rub the palms of your hands together, then use both hands to rub the ears, the beard, the feet, the legs and the haunch of the beast. Then gather your hands together to cup the good luck and place your hands in your pockets to keep the luck with you. We each got to rub it but I have to say that when I went to put it in my pockets, I missed and the good luck “fell out.” So, I guess I won’t be rich or any of the other things represented by the various parts of the lion-dragon that I had rubbed.
Once back outside, I took a picture of the scene opposite, which included an ancient building in traditional Chinese architectural style with a large building crane and the superstructure of a new, modern building next to it and with traditional red lanterns on posts at intervals along the wall.
Scene opposite 9918
Close-up of building under construction 9919
We walked over to the part of the wall closest to the construction site. To our right and on the side of the wall opposite the construction site were two guard stations in traditional architectural style. The wall stretched on out of sight, especially in the smog, but the sight of the buildings and the red lanterns on their dragon-motif poles made my heart go pitty-pat. It was exciting to actually be seeing things in person I’d studied and read about and seen photos of for many, many years (the exact number of years shall remain undisclosed). I took a Chinese History and Culture class during my last quarter as an undergraduate, for my teaching minor in History and loved every minute of it.
Two guard towers with lamp poles 9920
To our other side was another guard house which we approached and I took closer-up shots of it.
Other guard house 9922
Then we looked over the ramparts to view the main street. Mei pointed directly down the street and said, “The Drum Tower is right there and usually you can see it easily.” But that day, the view was obscured. I took a picture of where it would be, anyway. Note the traditional tricycle making a right turn.
Looking toward where the Drum Tower would be visible 9924
We went closer to the guard house and I took some detail shots out of admiration for the architecture and decorations.
Close-up of doors 9927
Closer-up of door detail 9928
Porch overhang detail 9930
Close-up of animals on eave 9935
View along length of porch, showing pillars and lanterns in a row 9936
View along length of ramparts 9937
Ramparts and guard house 9938
Two guard houses, one barely visible through the smog 9940
Then we descended the stairs to the open courtyard and I took photos of the long house above the entrance through the wall and another close-up of the entrance itself.
House atop wall 9941
Close-up of entrance 9942
It was my turn to sit next to a window as we journeyed to our next stop, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda so I spent my time, as I listened to Mei tell us about the pagoda and general history of the area, taking photos through the bus window. Some of them actually turned out and are here.
Street scenes:
9945
9946
9948
9950
Bus 9951
9952
9958
9959
9960
9961
Notice anything familiar about the building? Yes, KFC is even in China! 9963
Just after passing the shopping center that included KFC, we had our first glimpse of the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, barely visible through the mist.
Can you see it? 9964
More of the shopping center, with traditional Chinese architecture 9965, 9966
After passing the shopping center, we turned left and went past a park area which was made in the lovely, soothing Chinese style. Of course, I took photos of it.
Rock wall 9971
Stairway and landscaping 9972, 9973
More of the park 9974
Main park entrance 9976
A popular place 9977
Finally we came to the grounds of the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, which is surrounded by a Chinese-red wall. The first photos show how that color is incorporated into the outer design of the grounds.
Wall 9978
Wall with top of interior building showing 9981
The pillar on the other side of the entrance had a different motif 9991
On the wall next to the entrance was a carved scene 9994
Close-up of scene 9995
I took a direct shot above me of the eave on one outer corner of the roof 9996
The pillar on the other side of the entrance had a different motif 9991
On the wall next to the entrance was a carved scene 9994
Close-up of scene 9995
I took a direct shot above me of the eave on one outer corner of the roof 9996
A shot of the entire entrance 9998
Guards/ticket-takers at the entrance 0001
Carved divider on steps up to the entrance 0003
Mei paid for our tickets and then led us through the entrance into the grounds.
The first thing I saw was a beautiful building in traditional Chinese architectural style framed by green trees.
Building 0005
Beyond the building we got our first glimpse of the pagoda. This shot shows Nancy in the black hat, Nikki bareheaded and Mei in a white coat.
Pagoda and tourists 0007
Close-up of Pagoda through the smog 0008
Buildings along the sides of the courtyard leading to the pagoda 0010
Near the pagoda, on each side of the courtyard, were two small buildings that were shrines to two different Buddhas.
Shrine 0014
Female Buddha statue inside shrine; large drum above 0017
Décor on walls inside shrine 0019
Inside the other shrine, a small male Buddha with large bronze bell above 0020
From here, I’ll let pictures be “worth a thousand words.” Please note the serenity of everything.
Buveh with pagoda behind 0022
Another building on the sidelines; we went inside later 0023
Yet another building 0025
A picturesque tree 0028
Landscaping between above building and corner of pagoda 0029
Carved stair side piece 0030
Lovely setting for the pagoda 0032
Monument with green words in Chinese 0033
Lion-dragon standing guard outside stairs leading to pagoda 0034
Close-up of carving on pedestal holding lion-dragon 0037
Elaborate carvings of dragons dividing stairway leading to pagoda 0038
Lion-dragon on other side of stairway 0041
Close-up of other lion-dragon 0042
View of approach to pagoda 0045
Close-up of carving on wall 0047
Carvings on outside of stair railing 0048
Close-up of dragon head drain water spout 0049
“Mouth” of drain water spout 0040
Close-up of carving on balcony railing 0051
Close-up of dragons on base of monument 0059
Decorative wall surrounding pagoda’s elevated walkway 0046
Close-up of dragon medallion on stair rail 0056
View of pagoda and front building from stairway 0058
Carved stair divider on second level leading to pagoda 0060
Carved wood doors of building fronting the pagoda 0061
Closer-up view of doors 0062
Detail of door carving 0064
Detail of divider on door 0065
Detail of upper portion of door 0066
View of under part of porch roof 0068
Close-up of guardian animals on eave of building 0070
We were not allowed to take photos inside the pagoda itself, but there were wonderful murals, portions of which were of carved wood and other portions which were paintings that described the story of the Buddhist monk who made an eight-year journey from India to China carrying scrolls of Buddhist scriptures with him. All his adventures, perils and conversion activities were portrayed in these murals. In one scene, a flock of geese played an important role but our guide was sometimes hard to understand and I’m not sure what they actually did. However, whatever it was the reason for the pagoda’s name: Big Wild Goose Pagoda. There was a room with a big Buddha statue and many, many small statues all along the top edges of the wall and in niches in the beams of the room.
When we came out of the pagoda, we walked around to the back of it and came to an open square with buildings on all sides. I tried to photograph all the sides.
Buildings on one side (red pillars of pagoda are on left) 0071
Across the courtyard was a beautiful building fronted by a lovely bare tree in front of a larger, leafed tree. In the courtyard were stands selling implements for offerings and two places to make offerings.
Scene described above 0072
Corner scene of square 0073
Close-up of bare tree with hand-pulled wheelbarrow behind 0075
The two offering places were a heavy metal fire holder and a circular stand for lit candles; long incense sticks for the fire and red candles for the holder could be purchased at a table on the left or a small building on the right.
Crowd around vendor at table selling incense sticks and red candles; two offering places visible 0079
Devotees making candle offerings 0080
Another close-up of the bare tree with fire offering place on right 0082
Fire offering place 0084
Making an offering 0086
Building at back of square 0087
Close-up of vendor booth selling incense and candles; note pillar with turtle base 0088
Front of pillar with turtle face showing 0089
Pillar with pagoda behind 0091
Close-up of upper reaches of pagoda 0092
Carved stone planter on grounds 0094
Devotees making candle offerings 0096
People buying incense sticks and red candles at vendor stand 0097
Vendor booth and candle stand 0098
Angles of buildings in corner of square 0099
Entrance to pagoda, up divided stairway and through carved entryway 0100
View of entrance and pagoda rising above 0101
Plaque on wall of pagoda entrance denoting the structure as a National Tourist Attraction with a rating of AAAA 0103
Lovely decorations on gateway 0106
Side of building; note that the peak like this on an American house would likely be at the front of the house, not the side 0109
Mei led us on a tour of the grounds near the pagoda. The landscaping is based on principles of Fung Shui, aimed at harmony, keeping away negative influences and accentuating positive influences. Along the way, we saw:
This Buddha statue on a rock with carefully selected stones in foreground 0113
A grouping of selected rocks in a wooded setting 0114
Even the drains had nicely carved stone enhancements 0115
Proximity of rock grouping to nearby building 0116
A traditional-style pavilion 0117
Close-up of pavilion 0118
Buildings on surrounding square 0120
Close-up of building showing lines and angles 0122
Words on pillar sign 0123
Building with stone lanterns on either side of entrance 0124
Lovely hanging lamp (blurry) 0125
Sign above doorway, lamp behind 0126
Lovely planting of delicately-leaved trees (bamboo?) 0127
Shot of pagoda and fronting building 0128
Fronting building 0131
Elephant statue in courtyard 0132
Buildings, or possibly they were gateways, lead from one section of the grounds to another. It was an attractive way to break up a huge amount of space into enjoyable portions,
Gateway or divider building on one side 0133
Gateway with stone lantern in foreground 0134
Use of bamboo scaffolding in a corner where three buildings came together 0135
Carefully placed stone with appropriate landscaping framing it 0138
Rounded corner on stone wall surrounding a smaller pagoda-like structure 0139
Closer-up of large structure for a sign 0140
Smaller pagoda-shaped building 0141
Another Buddha on a stone foundation nestled among shrubbery 0142
Even without leaves, the bare trees contribute to the serenity and beauty of this spot 0144
Closer-up of bare trees in setting 0145
After passing the above landscaping, we came to an area where many bird cages holding singing birds were hung in trees. The Chinese love song birds and having a caged songbird is a delight for them.
First birdcage I saw 0146
In another landscaped courtyard near the bird cage was a place where wishes or prayers could be posted on a special holder. Hundreds or even thousands of these wish boards were hung on holders there. It was possible to read the writing on them but most were in Chinese so I don’t know what they said. At least one was in English but I didn’t read it. It was possible to buy a board at a nearby vendor booth and write your wish on it, then add it to one of the groups on the board.
Wish/prayer board 0147
Vendor booth with signs showing available products 0151
Near the vendor stand was an impressive ad serene-looking gold Buddha with floral offerings surrounding it.
Gold Buddha 0148
After I took this picture I realized the thing wasn’t a religious object; it was a trash receptacle made to maintain the integrity of its surroundings.
Trash can 0150
Another Buddha was secluded in a nearby area. It was different in that it was apparently carved out of a rock, part of which had been left in place to provide a frame and “cave” for the figure.
Buddha in “cave” 0154
An interesting, well-placed layered rock 0155
Along one of the walkways, walking toward us came four chickens. I managed to get my camera to cooperate only after one of them had walked out of the scene.
Chickens 0157
A very interesting stone figure atop an equally interesting stone in a lovely setting was a curiosity to me. The figure’s clothing looked more Arabian to me than Indian or Chinese.
Different stone figure and interesting rock 0158
Nearby was yet another Buddha in a “cave.” This one was a very fat, smiling Buddha. The setting for the figure was a lovely arrangement of smooth, layered rocks. It was a peaceful and contemplative place.
Fat smiling Buddha 0160
Fat smiling Buveh sitting near the fat smiling Buddha 1063
Nearby was a small hexagonal table and four small stone stools. Near them was another item that I realized was yet another – and different – trashcan although it was shaped like a tiny pagoda. The stools had carved decorations on the sides, two motifs on each stool.
Stone table and stools; trashcan 1062
Close-ups of the sides of the stools 0164, 0165,
Different stone figure and interesting rock 0158
Nearby was yet another Buddha in a “cave.” This one was a very fat, smiling Buddha. The setting for the figure was a lovely arrangement of smooth, layered rocks. It was a peaceful and contemplative place.
Fat smiling Buddha 0160
Fat smiling Buveh sitting near the fat smiling Buddha 1063
Nearby was a small hexagonal table and four small stone stools. Near them was another item that I realized was yet another – and different – trashcan although it was shaped like a tiny pagoda. The stools had carved decorations on the sides, two motifs on each stool.
Stone table and stools; trashcan 1062
After following the walkway the chickens had just been walking on, we came to a sidewalk leading past the buildings on the far side of the grounds. Buddhist monks live and work in the buildings. Most fascinating were all the birdcages of songbirds lined up along both sides of the sidewalk. Each cage had a hook on the top so it could be hung from a tree. I guess they are rotated so each spends some time hanging in the trees and other times sitting on the ground. I asked Mei who took care of the birds and she said the monks did.
Lines of songbird cages 0168
Closer view of buildings behind wall along side of grounds 0170
Angles of roofs 0171
We turned to our right and proceeded along the walkway in the direction of the entrance. To our right was a stone courtyard having carved pillars of various sorts. Some reminded me of headstones in Western cemeteries but apparently these were memorials of a different sort. They were of contrasting shapes and sizes and made pleasant viewing.
Stone memorials 0172
Close up of some of the memorials 0173
A group shot of the memorials 0175
Close-up of one of the oldest ones 0176
Close-up of one of the most interesting ones 1078
The most oriental-looking one with lovely wall railing behind 1080
Close up of some of the memorials 0173
Close-up of stone carving of dragon holding ball 0181
Eave art on nearby gateway 0177
Gateway with beautiful painted decorations and lovely red door 0182
Beautiful eave art and wall on building 0183
Carving on stone 0184
Near this area was a building with a gift shop inside. We flocked inside because we all love to shop in gift shops. There were some wonderful things inside and I bought a few items including one special one I’ll give as a Christmas gift but will remain unspecified here until after it has been given. When we entered, Mei handed each of us a colorful handout showing a chart of Chinese astrological characters and the birth years they are associated with. Nancy and I realized we were both born in the Year of the Rat (we were not especially overjoyed at this news but the shop workers were delighted; when I asked them what the characteristics of the rat were, they answered: wise and clever.) Nikki was born in the year of the Rooster and she was happy with that and bought a book in English that described the characteristics of “Rooster People.”
After I’d looked around a bit but hadn’t bought anything, one of the shop girls invited me to go into the back of the shop. I was a little hesitant, wondering what was going to happen to me but I followed her out of the main room through a room where carpets were sold and behind a screen to a place where there was a table covered with interesting items. She showed me a paper just like the one Mei had given me and explained that it was a gift from the shop. She had me identify the year I was born and that’s when she told me the characteristics of the Rat. Then she selected a stone stamp from the table in front of her and made a stamp of a rat in a special place on the paper and formally presented it to me. Of course I thanked her profusely. Then she led me back to the shop where I began browsing again. Eventually both Nikki and Nancy were led to the back room and came back bearing their special gift with the stamp of their astrological sign on it.
Dumpling Dinner and Ming Dynasty ShowThat evening Mei took us to the dinner theatre where we were going to experience a dumpling dinner and Ming Dynasty Show. The building was ornate and huge. The space where the tables were set up was spacious, had red walls and red decorations and a huge stage with red curtains. We were on the second level of three and in the second row of three. Tables were places so we were sitting at right angles to the stage. We were interested and pleased to note that although there were other Westerners there, most of the attendees were Asian. At the table beside ours were two Mexican men. Nikki, who is fluent in Spanish and has lived in Mexico City, identified them from their Spanish “accents” and she had a brief conversation with one of them before the show began.
But first we were to experience the delicious and multi-course Dumpling Dinner. Dumplings, as we soon realized, are small foods made of a n outer layer of thin pastry, each filled with something and are cooked by means of steaming in a special bamboo container with a screened bottom. Some of the dumplings had special shapes but most were like little bags with drawn-up tops. We had fifteen different types of dumplings during the dinner (and were bursting full by the end). Fillings included meat, thinly shredded vegetables, fish, shrimp and even a sweet mixture like a dessert. The dumplings in their baskets were brought into the room in tall stacks and then one basket each was quickly served to each table and three types of dumplings were in each basket.
Stack of dumpling baskets awaiting serving (blurry) 0188
Soon after we began eating, the entertainment began. A young woman wearing traditional Ming era clothing sat at a stringed musical instrument and played lovely music as we ate. That lasted about half an hour as dumplings came and went at the tables. The three of us had been practicing our chopstick skills and they came into play as we ate our dumplings.
Entertainer regaling the audience with beautiful music 0190
One basket of dumplings, including fish-shaped ones with green pea eyes that had fish filling 0193
Buveh demonstrating use of chopsticks 0195
Then soup was served. It came to the table in the form of a plate bearing a burner topped by a handled metal soup bowl. After placing it on the table, the waitress lighted a match and applied it to the open interior of the burner and a white substance there burst into flame. Soon the soup in the metal bowl was steaming hot.
Steaming hot soup in metal bowl, heated by flaming burner 0207
The soup ended the meal and then the waitresses and waiters whisked away all the dinner trappings and brought bottles of mineral to the tables. The lights dimmed, music sounded and two actors, a male and a female dressed in traditional royal dress of the Ming dynasty, walked onto the stage in front of the curtains. The male began introducing the program in Chinese with a deep, loud, stylized voice. Then the female repeated the same information (at least I suppose she did) in English. They were the narrators for the program and each time they came onto stage to introduce the next act they took turns speaking in English or Chinese.
The acts were spectacular in all aspects, including costumes, scenery, music, singing and acting. It was colorful, action packed and a treat for the eyes and ears. I tried to take pictures of each act but many were blurry because the actors were in almost constant motion. The best are included here and even some not the best but included to give an idea of the elements of the performance.
Group playing traditional musical instruments 0212
Lovely dancing maidens wearing dresses having extremely long flowing sleeves 0216
Another shot of the same 0217
A different dance, also with long flowing sleeves 0218
A musical group with singers (note the spectacular scenery) 0219
Dancing girls in GREEN dresses 0221
A very dramatic warrior dance performed by males 0224
The mask with glowing eyes (above dancers) that lowered at the beginning of the dance 0225
Dancers getting into it beneath mask 0226
A famous Chinese painting comes to life (dancers are behind a mesh screen) 0228
Dancers in front of mesh screen 0229
Horn playing musicians; note spectacular flower backdrop 0230
A misty dance with maidens in flowing pink dresses 9231
The main dancer arrives 0232
The group together 0234
Twirling 0235
Posed 0236
Comic musicians performing in front of a backdrop of a court scene, as if performing for that audience 0237
Close-up of musicians and backdrop 0239
Musicians playing long horns 0240
Dancers performing for the emperor and empress 0241
Out come the long flowing sleeves 0242
Star performer swishing her sleeves 0244
Another dance act 0245
Swish those sleeves! 0247
The finale begins 0248
Emperor’s courtiers arrive to take a bow 0249
Emperor and empress bow 0250
The entire ensemble 0251
Our tour guide, Mei, met us after the performance and we rode back to our hotel in the tour van with Ma driving. We had planned to play a game of Quiddler before retiring for the night but we were all so tired we just got ready for the night and crashed in our respective beds and slept like logs.
