Fado is the national music of Portugal. It is music of the people although it has gone from being sung and played spontaneously in homes, squares, bars and restaurants to being formalized and featured on TV, in movies and in Fado Clubs where one can go to eat, drink and enjoy the show.
Nikki was talking about Fado before we even got to Lisbon. She had heard about it and really wanted to attend a Fado show. She located a Fado club within walking distance of TSS’s first berth and talked five of us into going to a show with her. The price, 15 Euros, was kind of steep in spite of being a special one for TSSers also that included one free drink, but after investigating and learning that other places charged much more, we decided to go with Nikki’s choice. Some other TSSers who might have been interested in going with us were swayed by another staffer to try a “more authentic” place closer to the center of town that had been recommended by a friend although it was much more expensive and they remained firm about going to that one. They tried to convince us to come with them, saying that our place would be too “touristy,” but we resisted and the two groups went their separate ways.
Nikki, Elisabeth and Lynn; Nikki’s photo, used with permission
Our group consisted of five females, Nikki, Elisabeth, Nancy, Lynn and me; and one male, Ganesh. We walked from the terminal one block to and then through the subway and beyond it just one street, turned right and walked two very short blocks and there it was. The exterior was white stucco, inside the main door was an open patio and then into the Fado room which was very small, packed with tables and chairs and divided in two sections, one immediately surrounding the stage and the other one step higher with a wrought iron railing around it. The upper section was ¾ of the room and had only tables and chairs while the lower portion, in an arched shape, included one corner area with a tiny stage two steps up from the floor, which was cobblestone just like all the outside streets and sidewalks. The stage had a wooden floor. All around the white stucco walls of the room were interesting traditional Portuguese pictures, decorations and knick knacks. We were shown to a table on the upper level but very near the stage from which we had a great view of the stage and the performers. The place was packed and I truly think we were the only non-Portuguese people there.
A woman dressed in black took the stage where two male musicians were seated on chair, one playing a Portuguese guitar that looked a lot like a lute and the other, a Spanish Guitar. When the woman began singing, we were blown away!
The Diva, in full voice; photo by Nikki; used with permission
She had a powerful voice, deep and rich sounding, and we were enthralled from the first moment until the last note had diminished into shimmering silence. That number alone was worth the entire 15 Euros. Nancy said, “I think she’s a diva,” and we all agreed with that. The Diva left the stage and we were served the drinks we had ordered. Mine was water. There was much talking among the patrons, some of whom were finishing meals. After a while, the woman came back and leaned against a pillar right near our table; another woman was standing among the audience across the room on the upper level; and a man was standing another area of the upper level. The first woman began singing, as beautifully as before, then the other woman sang. She had a nice voice but pale and weak compared to the first woman’s, then the man sang and as he did, he and the second woman made their way to stand beside the first woman. Then they sang a trio which was incredibly beautiful. The harmony was outstanding and the combination was synergy in action; the total sound was far, far greater than the sum of the individual parts.
Nancy and me; photo by Nikki; used with permission
The audience showed its appreciation by loud and prolonged applause then the singers left the room and the rest of the audience gradually left the room. We had only been there half an hour and wondered what was going on. In retrospect, we realized that the trio was the finale performance of a show so we decided the next show must be starting soon. Since we didn’t speak Portuguese and they didn’t speak English, we couldn’t inquire. We waited a long, long time, enjoying each other’s company and not being evicted by the employees. When it became apparent that other people would not be coming, we asked, using motions, if we could move to a table on the main level and it was approved. The others ordered a pitcher of Sangria and I finished off the bottle of water while we waited. Finally, the musicians came back onto the stage and then a group of three people came in and took a table in the center on the upper level. The acoustic guitar player reacted enthusiastically, putting his guitar on a table and hurrying over to them. He kissed the two women on both of their cheeks and energetically shook hands with the man, then sat down at their table and began an animated conversation with them.
Elisabeth, Lynn and Ganesh; photo by Nikki; used with permission
After a very long time with nothing else happening and the time creeping toward midnight, we decided we ought to leave. As we started to make motions to do so, suddenly the musicians came to life. The guitar player left his friends and returned to the stage along with the other player. The male singer came on stage and sang a set of about three numbers. I was not particularly impressed with his voice but it was part of the cultural experience. We clapped appreciatively when it ended and he left the stage. A few minutes later, he came to our table with three CDs in cases in his hand, with his picture on the front of each. He was trying to get us to buy and for ONLY 20 Euros each. He didn’t make a sale and left, disappointed.
The Second Singer; photo by Nikki, used by permission
Next, after another long wait, the second woman came onto the stage and sang a set. She was obviously not feeling well and had to start the first song over again. She seemed to be straining her voice in order to perform but at the very end of the last song, her voice was strong and powerful and quite lovely. After leaving the stage she, too, came to our table to try to sell us CDs of her singing but didn’t make a sale. After she left, some of our group mentioned that they had seen folks among the large crowd buying CDs and other souvenirs as they left the show.
Then, just after midnight, when the guitar player was again sitting at the table with his friends, talking, the first woman came onto the stage again and the guitar player returned to his seat. We were treated to another outstanding performance of her powerful and beautiful singing. She, however, did not try to hawk her CDs to us and we left shortly afterwards, tired to the bone but happy with the Fado singing we had heard.
I didn’t think taking pictures would be allowed so I didn’t take my camera although as it turned out, everyone else in my group did and they took quite a number of shots. I’ll ask if any is willing to share some with me and if so will post them here.
Experience 2 - Tuna
On the night before we left Lisbon, the TSS community was invited to attend a dinner and Fado show at the University of Lisbon, our hosts for many of the Academic Field Program events experienced by the TSS students while in Lisbon. We were bused from TSS to the campus and escorted into a building where we were met by costumed musicians playing traditional instruments. As soon as we gathered, they burst into music, enthusiastic and smiling, singing and playing with all their hearts. It was an absolutely fantastic performance by these students from many faculties (majors). They are a formal group named Tuna.
Tuna 6251
I don’t know why the name but am sure the Portuguese meaning has nothing to do with the fish. After a few numbers by them, we were led into another room where a wonderful dinner buffet was set out for us along with two tables full of, well, beverages. Most of them were alcoholic and by the end of the evening there was not a drop of them left. Nikki confiscated an entire 3-litre bottle of chilled water for our table and it was gone by the end of the meal.Tuna’s Flag Artist in Action 1, photo by Nikki; used with permission
After a very short set of speeches (actually accolades and presentations of gifts), during which the kitchen staff removed the buffet items and tables, clearing a large space in the room, Tuna came into the room, again in costume, and started performing. Two stars of the group were the flag twirler, a male who could swish, toss and flourish two blue silk flags with grace and skill, and the tambourine player, who could tap those tambourines with his feet as well as his hands. He looked like a jumping jack as he flourished the tambourines to the side as he kicked up his heels and tapped the instruments in rhythm with the music. What a limber guy! As their performance began, TSS students started gathering round and I realized we would never be able to see. I looked up and observed the balcony overlooking where we were and said to Nikki, “Let’s go up there!” She agreed and we headed out of the room and up a flight of stairs beyond, then walked out on the balcony, where we could lean over the railing and see perfectly. Soon we were joined by many other TSSers who had seen us and realized it was a good idea.Tuna’s Flag Artist in Action 2, photo by Nikki; used with permission
Unfortunately, although I’d taken my camera, the batteries gave out after three shots and those three were blurry. The music, however, was fantastic. Then they went out into another open area with tables and chairs and played some really lively non-Fado music with skill and great talent. It was a pleasure to watch and listen to them.Tuna and Mascot 6252
Tuna 6251
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