Thursday, October 11, 2007

First Day in Panama City - Morning, Part One

First Day in Panama City – Morning: First Sights and City Tour Part One: Casco Viejo (Old Panama City)

When my day began, I went to the Lido Deck to see what was there. It was a beautiful sunny day with a nearly cloudless blue sky overhead. The water surrounded us because we were at anchor, not in a port. This made for quite an exciting adventure later in the morning. This is what I saw:

Very cool rock outcrop or island between TSS and the shore 6676


A beautiful small island 6677


Panama City skyline in the distance 6679


Bridge of the Americas, part of the PanAmerican Highway 6685



We had sailed under the Bridge of the Americas after leaving the Canal and before entering the waters near Panama City. After taking in the sights and many more photos than are included here, I ate breakfast then returned to my cabin to prepare to leave for the Shore Excursion I had signed up for, Panama City 102: City and Canal. When I looked out my porthole I was so pleased with the view I took a picture of it. I’m so impressed with it I’m including it as the first in what will become a series of photos entitles Through My Porthole. Note the line or cable that makes a vertical line to the right of the scene.

Panama City as seen “Through My Porthole” 6687


Those going on the Shore Excursion had to meet at 8:50 in the Coral Dining Room on Coral Deck. The reason for this soon became apparent. The outer door to Coral Deck is the one by which we were going to exit the ship by walking down a step ramp to a floating dock. From the dock we had to try to step into a covered lifeboat that was bobbing frantically on the waves and whose distance from the dock varied by the moment. In some ways it was a terrifying experience but there were three crew on hand to help us, one on the dock and two inside the boat. I took a few photos of those who were ahead of me in line for this experience.

Step one, getting out of the ship and onto the dock 6689



We had to go down the stair ramp to the floating dock holding tight to the rails with both hands. At the bottom, an officer in white waits to assist the person onto the lifeboat by holding tightly to his/her hand. The second photo shows the officer in white at the top only allowed a few people at a time to go down. A crew member in blue is leaning out of the lifeboat, holding tight to it with one hand and reaching for the next victim, er, rather, person, to assist them into the lifeboat. Actually, two crew were inside the lifeboat to assist with this. Notice the waves coming in. The boat was bobbing, the dock was bobbing and TSS was bobbing, all at different times in different ways.

Step two, reach the dock and reach for the hand of the crew members, 6690


Step three, wait and watch the distance between the lifeboat and the dock for the opportune moment when they were very close together before grabbing the crew’s hands and stepping onto the 3-inch ledge outside the door of the lifeboat.

Step four, successfully put one foot on the ledge and the other foot on the floor inside the lifeboat, assisted by the two crew.

Step five, hold on tight to whatever is handy inside the lifeboat, which is rocking wildly, and stagger to a short flight of steps going down to the seating area.

Hold on tight! It’s going to be a bumpy ride! 6691



An indicator of how risky the situation was, was the fact that the young and very good looking and young Safety Captain, a Greek, himself was at the wheel of the lifeboat. He was amazing as he handled the craft seemingly with great ease. I tried to get some shots of him in action but it was very difficult because of all the motion and poor lighting. Here are the best ones.

Action shots 6693 6694 6698 6699


6700


Another crew member stood right behind the Safety Captain once we were underway. I wonder if it was to take over the wheel if something happened to the SC.

Buveh, wearing fishing vest stuffed with necessities so I wouldn’t have to carry a purse, in lifeboat 6703



When we reached the terminal dock after a ride similar to a roller coaster ride, our tour guide awaited us. We boarded a white van and took off to see the sights of Old Panama City and Ancient Panama City (two different areas!). Old Panama City is in the throes of change; some sections are deteriorating and others have been renovated and are commanding astronomical prices while extreme poverty exists in the rundown areas. All buildings have amazingly beautiful architecture despite their condition. Out of courtesy for our host country, I did not take pictures of all deteriorated buildings, the people, etc. “Their poverty is not a tourist attraction,” as one TSS professor said.

This area was the second Panama City, founded January 21, 1673 after pirates and fire destroyed the original city, now called Panama Viejo (Ancient Panama City). Part of this area has been/is being renovated and the rest is in disrepair as mentioned above. As well as many churches, there are many buildings having balconies with wrought iron railings from the influence of the French, who first tried building a canal across Panama. In 1997, the area was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its “rich architectural diversity.”

Our first stop was the Paseo las Bovedas, a semi-circular walkway, partially arbor-covered, around a tip of land fronting on the water. Originally the space was used to repel pirates and prisoners (read on!). We walked all around the paseo. Some of the photos I took are next.

Flowering Tree in Old Panama City 6706


Apartment building in Old Panama City (note balcony and railings) 6707


Great balconies and railings 6708


We mount a few stairs to the beginning of a walkway along the waterfront.

6710
Our tour guide talking about Panama Hats; vendor’s display in background 6711



I was surprised to learn that Panama Hats neither originated nor are made in Panama. They are products of Colombia (not Columbia, SC, USA, my long-time home, but Colombia, the South American country). They were made popular by US President Teddy Roosevelt, who bought one during a visit to Panama, was photographed in newspapers wearing it and (like the Teddy Bear also named for TR) became all the rage. While the guide was talking, one of our group bargained with the vendor and bought a hat – in a special wood box – for $10.

Street scene (the two women in traditional clothing was a plus) 6712


We continue our tour by walking along the arbor-covered walkway 6713


Juxtaposition of Old and New Panama Cities and waterfront from walkway 6715



Two beautiful buildings in Old Panama City 6716, 6717



Classic view of Panama City from across the bay 6718


View of non-downtown area of Panama City 6723



At the furthest point of land there is a gallery consisting of two levels which is a monument to the Frenchmen who died during France’s attempt to build a canal.

One side of the monument (upper level) with Bridge of the Americas in background 6725


Gallic cock (Rooster, symbol of France) and coat of arms atop monument 6730


This pelican flew in and joined our tour group for a while 6731


View of mountains across bay 6732


Close-up of monument lamps 6739



Metal sculpture of girl at sewing machine 6740



Behind the sculpture is a very old building with small rooms that now house an art gallery and a restaurant. Originally, however, the spaces were prison cells (bovedas) where prisoners were chained to the walls; during high tides, the water flowed into the cells through the open, barred windows, submerging the prisoners in seawater until the tide went out. The guide pointed out that short prisoners undoubtedly drowned the first time it happened to them and those that survived had numerous health problems including sea crabs eating at their flesh and other unimaginable horrors. (Sorry to include that, but it’s what happened.)

The gallery/monument’s back is to the water. It faces the Plaza Francia

Beautiful tree in center of Plaza Francia 6735


Beautiful building on the plaza 6743


National Institute of Culture (unfortunately we did not go inside) 6744


Teatro Anita Villalaz, part of the above building to the right side 6745


Street sign for Plaza de Francia; sign is made of tiles 6747


Close-up of lovely grill work on house; the above street sign is on the wall near it 6748


Grillwork in arch above doorway. One of only 3 photos I took in the deteriorating area 6749





Beautiful balcony railing, another of the 3 photos 6754
Street sign on street where the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo stand 6750


Famous arch! (Arco Chato) 6752, 6755





The Arco Chato is what finally convinced the US Congress that it was safe to build a canal in Panama. The story is that when the US was debating whether or not to build a canal across Panama, a Panamanian postage stamp showing an erupting volcano caused fears that earthquakes would be a problem in Panama and all the expense and time spent building a canal would be for naught when an earthquake struck. Panama used this arch, which had been built in 1678 and was still intact, as proof that Panama does not experience earthquakes. The arch finally collapsed in 2003, but not from an earthquake. It’s been put back together and is now a famous landmark, as it should be! The arch has mortar construction and no internal supports.

Wall on left at right angles is the Arch wall; the white part is attached and has the street sign attached 6758


Close-up of enter doorway in picture above is the Museum of Colonial Religious Art (we didn’t go in there) 6751


This balcony is in the renovated area 6759


Couldn’t resist this cat in a doorway 6760


Beautiful architectural details, on a deteriorating building, the third of the 3 photos 6764


Street scene on dividing line; renovated area on right; area being renovated on left 6762




More beautiful balconies and architecture 6763


Then we walked to the Plaza de la Independencia, a nice public square that was anchored by the beautiful, old Cathedral, built in 1798 and one of the few structures still standing after an earthquake (!) in 1882. Nikki and I took turns taking each other’s photo so here is one of me. Most of the tour group is between me and the church with their backs to me; the tour guide is facing the same direction as I am.


Buveh with Cathedral and tour group in background 6766


People enjoying the square; beautiful building in background 6769


Standing on the square, I took pictures of things I saw across the street on all sides of the square. Here they are.

Detail of church 6770


Street Scene 6772


Street Scene with ancient ruins at the end and the water beyond 6773


Yellow House 6774


Another Street with Great Balcony Railings 6776


Then we crossed the street and went into the cathedral. No services were taking place so we were allowed to walk around and take photos.

Street Sign on the church 6778


Chandeliers inside the church 6779


Stained glass window of St. Anthony 6780


Green tile cross on wall 6781


Lovely altar (nave?) 6782


Plaque on wall just inside church door 6783


Back outside, I saw another great balcony railing and took this photo.


Detail, balcony railing 6784


We crossed the square, turned a corner and started walking toward the north. There was a beautiful pink building I just had to photograph.


Note the balconies 6787


Great colors and architectural details 6788


Detail of window 6790


Rose window-style grill 6791


Close-up of statue on church 6789


Detail on church tower 6786


We walked on again and came near the waterfront again, a different part of it and looked to our left down a street to see the front of the Presidential Palace. The street was barricaded and an armed guard was on duty. Normally we could have walked down the street and seen it close up but on this day some important meetings were going on so we could only view it from afar and take photos. I didn’t feel right about photographing the guard so I settled for seal on the nearby guard shack.


The white building with a portico in front is the Presidential Palace 6792


Seal of Presidential Guards on Guard Shack nearby 6794


Nearby house with great balcony and railing 6793


Pressing onward, we passed a wonderful-looking place I’d have loved to have explored or at least gotten closer to.


House with lovely grounds 6795



We went about a block past it and around a corner to the National Theatre, built in the neoclassical style. It was on a narrow street with a church opposite that was practically on the sidewalk. It is painted in bright colors typical of Panama. It was impossible to stand back far enough to get a photo of the entire building. I got the best shots I could with my back flat against the church.


Upper floor 6798



Main front door 6799


A series of “muse” statues in niches graced the front of the building; here are two 6796


6797


Corner of theatre looking toward the water 6800


We headed for the water to get to where our bus was waiting. On the way we passed a campus of the University of Panama, which TSS had strongly advised us to avoid because of anti-US demonstrations that often took place there. I paused long enough to take a picture of the guard shack near the entrance to the parking lot and then hurried on past.


Sign for University of Panama parking lot 6801


View of Old Panama City from the back; we started our tour on the other side of them 6802


These renovated buildings are just to the right of the old ruins in the above photo, 6803


We board our bus to go to lunch 6804.


This entry is 19 pages long so I’ll cover the second part of our morning tour in the next blog posting.

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